Infused coffees have been one of the most divisive topics in the specialty coffee industry over the past few years.
Some believe they are a natural and welcome progression of innovation in experimental processing, creating bold, unique flavours otherwise impossible with “traditional” processing techniques. Others, meanwhile, consider infused coffees inauthentic and misleading, dismissing their place in specialty coffee.
They have long been, and will continue to be, a polarising and contentious subject. But as infused coffees diversify and proliferate in certain markets, have opinions shifted significantly?
Kyle Ramage of Black & White Coffee Roasters, Ennio Cantergiani of Academie du Café, and David Paparelli of M-Cultivo share their thoughts.
You may also like our article on how infused coffees are diversifying.
The impact of infused coffees on the industry
Between 2018 and 2020, rumours began to circulate about a new “infusion” processing method.
The process involved co-fermenting green coffee with additional natural ingredients, such as fruit and spices. Producers could then create intensely bold and prominent flavour profiles, corresponding to whichever ingredients they added.
As a result, producers could “customise” their coffees to match buyer preferences, broadening market access. Moreover, infusion processing methods could also raise cup scores by a few points, potentially improving farmers’ income.
The benefits were clear, especially in an industry that advocates for producers’ economic and social empowerment. Yet, some coffee professionals are still hesitant to accept them.
Some assert that their “funky” or prominent flavours can’t be achieved by terroir or traditional processing alone. Without full transparency, they claim infused coffees could mislead roasters, baristas, consumers, and even competitors.
“The downside is where the controversy lies – the integrity of the product. Some producers hide the fact that there’s some co-fermentation to level the playing field,” says David Paparelli, the CEO of M-Cultivo, an online platform that connects producers with international buyers and improves their market access. “We still need integrity of the product and honesty when telling buyers how producers process these coffees. There also needs to be some level of education in order to communicate to buyers effectively.”
Although still divisive, infused coffees have only grown in popularity. They have become a permanent fixture of trade shows in particular. Producers and roasters can showcase new and exciting flavour profiles that pique the interest of many attendees, effectively using these coffees as marketing tools.
Lack of formal definitions
Coinciding with polarising opinions, many still disagree on how to define these coffees.
The terms “infused,” “flavoured,” and “co-fermented” are often used interchangeably. This makes it difficult to distinguish between them, exacerbating confusion and concerns about transparency.
“I always struggle with the term ‘infused coffees’, as it can have negative connotations. It can be inferred that these coffees are intentionally deceptive, which isn’t true,” says Kyle Ramage, a US Barista Champion and a co-founder of Black & White Coffee Roasters in North Carolina, US. “I tend to use the term co-fermented when the coffee is fermented with something else, especially when it comes to fruit-forward coffees.”
Moreover, there’s little agreement about where exactly flavour “infusion” should take place along the supply chain. Some believe infusion can happen at any stage, whether during processing or after roasting. Others, meanwhile, affirm that only you can only infuse green coffee.
“As soon as you add extra ingredients for flavour modification, I consider it infusion,” says Ennio Cantergiani, the owner of Academie du Café, a coffee training and education centre in Chardonne, Switzerland. “Unfortunately, it’s not so simple. There are many classifications of these coffees, including yeast and bacteria inoculation, co-fermentation with and without sugar, flavoured-infused, and barrel aged.”
As the different categories of infused and co-fermented coffees proliferate, they can be separated into two distinct types: flavour modification and flavour enhancement.
Co-fermentation, for example, is more of a flavour modification. Producers add extra ingredients to imbue their flavours into the coffee. Yeast inoculation, for instance, is more akin to flavour enhancement. Farmers add different yeasts and bacteria to coffee as it ferments to emphasise certain flavours and textures, such as lactic tasting notes.
“Co-fermentation is often the focus of the infused coffee debate,” David says. “Yeast inoculation is becoming increasingly common and has been in the wine and beer industries for a long time. I don’t think there’s necessarily any problem with classifying it as a natural coffee flavour. It’s more of an enhancement, not a modification or tampering.”
Opening up conversations about infused coffees
Since its inception, specialty coffee has prioritised terroir, origin, and careful cultivation and processing, all of which highlight naturally occurring flavour notes.
In keeping with this point of differentiation, some view infused and co-fermented coffees, which they argue create synthetic flavours, as being at odds with industry values. Others, meanwhile, stand firm in the belief that they are a welcome innovation in processing and flavour, especially when producers benefit.
Over five years later, there’s still clear division between the “team terroir” and “team infused” camps. Although the overall industry may never fully embrace infused and co-fermented coffees, particularly in more mature markets, the growth of these coffees has given way to more constructive discourse about processing and flavour.
“We’re at a point where we can have nuanced discussions about what infused coffee is and isn’t, and the different levels of infused coffee,” David says. “There’s a spectrum that we’re finally acknowledging. We need transparency. The conversations have shifted to a more open space, and hopefully, this is where we progress towards in the future as well.
“These coffees have made processing more of a scientific endeavour, which is more similar to other premium beverage industries, and we should acknowledge this positive impact,” he adds.
Indeed, consumer interest in infused coffees has grown, particularly among younger generations and in cultures where fermented flavours and novel experiences are popular, such as China, Japan, and Saudi Arabia.
To introduce these coffees to a wider audience, Black & White has blended co-ferments with other traditional processing methods, which Kyle says creates more balanced, yet still interesting, flavour profiles. The Piña Colada blend, which combines coconut fermented coffee with a traditional processed coffee, has a sparkling mouthfeel, for instance.
“We can have a lot of interesting, constructive conversations,” he tells me. “At the 2024 Specialty Coffee Expo, I took part in a panel discussion about co-fermentation, advocating for it. The people against it had solid arguments, and the discussion was tense, but overall positive. We have different opinions, which is good for our industry.”
Raising awareness of health concerns
Alongside discussions about transparency, flavour authenticity, and value addition, the growing prominence of infused coffees has raised concerns about food health and safety – especially when using artificial ingredients.
While the producer-led trend largely began with the use of natural ingredients, such as fruit and spices, there has been a growing number of cases where farmers use artificial flavourings to achieve similar results.
Artificial flavourings are often perceived as “less than” compared to natural, whole food ingredients, potentially creating more synthetic, one-dimensional tasting notes. Scientific research also suggests that artificial food additives are related to a number of health risks, including developing certain types of cancer.
This highlights the essential need to offer full transparency about all additional ingredients used on coffee farms and beyond.
“I always support these practices as long as the language is accurate. If we buy coffee that has had fruit added to it, we need producers to be honest,” Kyle says. “If not, we always speak directly with the farmers. Customers need to be aware of what they are purchasing and that we are as transparent as we can be about what happens at the farm level.”
With the recent US Food and Drug Administration ruling that automatically classifies black coffee as “healthy”, labelling is likely to be under even more scrutiny.
“It’s a mandatory requirement in terms of food regulations, especially for labels,” Ennio highlights. “Everything that has been added during the process that affects product integrity must be declared. Therefore, when extra ingredients, whether natural or artificial, are added to modify the flavour and taste of coffee, it must be mentioned on the label. Consumers must be aware of what has been added to the product.
“The 2024 US lawsuit against Unilever is a case in point,” he adds. The company agreed to pay almost US $9 million to settle a class action lawsuit regarding one of the main ingredients in Breyers Natural Vanilla Ice Cream, after it was found that the product contains non-vanilla plant products, potentially misleading consumers about where the flavour is derived from.
Genuine innovation will drive the industry forward
Regardless of opinion, the demand for infused and co-fermented coffees is evident.
As interest in advanced processing methods, such as anaerobic fermentation and thermal shock, proliferates, infusion and co-fermentation are likely to find a niche.
“Infused coffee, especially yeast inoculation, will become a more common practice in high-end specialty coffee,” says David. “On the other hand, co-fermentation will become its own category with different subcategories, like fruits and flowers. As long as producers can make a living off of these coffees, they will support the industry.”
The strongest interest has been in emerging specialty coffee markets. With a bigger demand for novelty coffees, the Middle East, China, South Korea, Taiwan, and Japan have been among the largest export destinations for infused coffees.
Although demand has also been steadily increasing in Europe and the US, consumers in these countries are more likely to consider experimental flavours over-fermented and sour, and tend to be more value-oriented when buying coffee. This means artificially infused coffees may find less success in these markets.
“We need people who have bold opinions and who disagree,” Kyle asserts. “As we have more specialised roasters, importers, and green buyers, we will also have more specialised customers. The more educated our customers are, the better it is for our industry.
“When people have to think, ‘Do I like this cinnamon-infused coffee, or do I like the clean washed Ethiopian coffee?’, the more they will start to demand what they actually want. And we need that in our industry to push us forward.”
Ultimately, we need to be open-minded and inclusive of these coffees, especially when huge knowledge gaps still exist. At the same time, however, the market for infused and co-fermented coffees remains comparatively small compared to washed, naturals, and honeys – and that is unlikely to change.
“It will always exist as a niche market. Some consumers love these coffees, and it is true that it could be a ‘bridge’ between tea and coffee lovers, particularly light infused coffees with floral notes,” Ennio says.
While the debate over flavour manipulation is important, we should acknowledge that there are more pressing matters that demand equal, if not more, industry attention, such as climate resilience and farmer livelihoods.
“We should spend a lot more time talking about other things. Producers will figure out a solution and how to categorise co-fermentation,” says David. “We need to focus on how we should create an industry where farmers can thrive in the future.”
Since they captured the attention of specialty coffee professionals, infused coffees have sparked contentious discourse. While people have become more accepting of these coffees overall, confusion and apprehension persist.
The terroir vs. infusion debate will continue for years to come. But as infused coffees diversify and new categories emerge, they will likely find a home in the industry.
Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether we should treat infused and co-fermented coffees differently.
Photo credits: Ennio Cantergiani
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